Tuesday, October 09, 2012

Arkansas' Bikes Blues and BBQ Delivers in 2012


Written By: Russ Brown Motorcycle Attorneys

Bikes, Blues, and BBQ Motorcycle Rally in Fayetteville Arkansas the last weekend in September did not disappoint this seasoned motorcycle rally goer. Arkansas' infamous Bikes, Blues, and BBQ Motorcycle Rally wrapped up shortly after midnight on Saturday September 29, 2012 and had over 32,000 bags of trash to prove that this event is truly awesome.

By everyone's account, Bikes, Blues, and BBQ Motorcycle Rally was an incredible success and a great time for all the motorcyclists who rode in. If riding the beautiful Ozarks isn't enough to get you there add to the rally mix the amazing aroma of the Kansas City BBQ Society Cook-off and Championship.  Not many people would turn away from the smell of 59 teams from 13 states competing for top BBQ spots in four categories brisket, pork, chicken and, of course, ribs.This year's winner was Getting' Sauced from Missouri! 

The main street for the rally is the legendary Dickson St.  Dickson St is packed and the place to be and be seen during Bikes Blues and BBQ.  The bars that line the street are packed to capacity and the streets are lined with people watching the beautiful procession of motorcycles that ride up and down Dickson.  There are vendors lining the streets and the Main Stage area complete with beer tent.  You could buy everything from Motorcycle gear to pulled pork (motorcycle rally staple) to cheesecake on a stick.  

Great bands would take to the Main Stage and so would those romantic motorcyclists who thought tying the knot at Bikes Blues and BBQ would make their nuptials all that more memorable.  Joe Giles, the organizer of the event, is a minister and he performed the ceremony for four couples over the weekend.  And to cap the Main Stage off was the Miss BBB (bikini) contest.  

The Bikes, Blues, and BBQ Motorcycle Rally was capped off by the Parade of Power. This year, over 600 motorcyclists rumbled their way from College Avenue to Dickson Street and passed thousands of spectators and families. The roar of the bikes was both deafening and thrilling for all who attended. 

I loved the area so much to get into the spirit and show my support I donned a Razorbacks tee for the game against Texas A&M - Texas thumped the Razorbacks 58 to 10.  

The motorcycle accident attorneys at Russ BrownMotorcycle Attorneys were proud to be a part of this year's festivities as sponsor and official motorcycle attorney of Bikes Blues and BBQ.  We know why you ride and we understand your passion for motorcycling—because we ARE motorcyclists too. If you are ever injured in a motorcycle accident, we will fight aggressively for you. We always pursue the maximum compensation for our clients to help pay for medical expenses, lost wages, and pain and suffering. Call us today at 1-800-4-BIKERS for a free consultation. We Ride—We Care—We Win!

Trader Online Web Developer

Wednesday, October 03, 2012

CycleTrader.com Reaches 40,000 Facebook Fans, Launches Fan Appreciation Contest



In honor of CycleTrader’s fan page reaching 40,000 motorcyclists, we’re holding a fan appreciation contest to giveaway five $50 gift cards to help you get out and ride this Fall. Upload a photo of your motorcycle, or one you found on CycleTrader.com for your chance to win a free tank of gas.



Trader Online Web Developer

Tuesday, October 02, 2012

Simple Guide to Valve Adjustment


Written By: GearHead.com

So you just got a killer deal on a bike on CycleTrader and you want to make sure everything is in tip top shape before your big upcoming ride. Whether you know if your valves need adjusting or not, it’s a good idea to at least check them periodically, especially in bigger or high compression engines where valves need to be adjusted more frequently. This simple guide will get you started with the basics on how to check and adjust your valves. This guide is for most 4 stroke motorcycle engines, but does not cover every make and model, so consult a repair manual for specifics for your bike. Valve adjustment can seem intimidating but it’s fairly simple on most bikes and can save you lots of money in the long run instead of having to take it to a mechanic. 



What You Will Need:
·         Valve clearance specifications (Exhaust and Intake in mm)
·         Basic knowledge of your bike (how to get to TDC)
·         Feeler gauges – Feeler gauges that match the specs you need to measure. (Some automotive feeler gauges are too big) Any local auto or motorsports store should carry some.
·         Basic Tools – Basic tools like screwdriver, sockets, pliers, and wrenches to remove the valve cover, sparkplug, and turn over crankshaft nut.
·         Valve cover gasket – Just in case the old one is bad or gets damaged. (Always buy factory OEM gaskets)

How to check and adjust the valves:
1.        Remove spark plug(s).
2.        Take off valve cover and set aside. They may need a love tap from a rubber mallet to break loose. You should be able to see the rocker arms and valve stem/springs at this point.
3.        Crank the engine over so that the timing marks point to top dead center (TDC) and it’s at the top of the compression stroke. Rocker arms on intake and exhaust will usually have slight amount play in them since all the valves on the cylinder will be closed. There is usually a timing mark you can view through
4.        Check valve clearance by measuring the gap between the rocker arm and the valve stem with the feeler gauge. (see photo at right)
a.        If valve clearance is correct, there will be a slight drag felt on the correct feeler gauge. If the gap is incorrect, you’ll need to adjust the valves. If you have a shim type valve, you’ll most likely need to remove the rocker arm to replace the current shim with one of the correct size. This may mean more work to make sure that timing isn’t affected and trial and error to get the right shim size. Consult your bikes repair manual for specifics on your bike. If you have a screw and locknut style valve adjuster, then you can simply loosen the locknut and adjust the screw to the correct specs.
5.        Set valve clearance with adjusting screw and then tighten locknut. Check the clearances after the locknut is tightened then replace the valve cover (with new gasket if needed) and tighten in crisscross pattern. (Do not over tighten!)
6.        Do the same for all valves on that cylinder and then move on to other cylinder(s) using steps 2-5.
7.        Install spark plugs. (Do not over tighten!)
8.        That’s it! Now go out and ride that freshly tuned beast like you stole it.

If you run into or cause any broken parts along the way, (bolts, gaskets, etc) be sure to replace them with genuine factory OEM motorcycle parts. Gearhead.com offers free online parts diagrams and sells millions of OEM and aftermarket parts, gear and accessories for all major makes and models of motorcycles.
Note: For a more in depth guide on valve adjustment, please see our other article, “Howto Adjust Valves on a Motorcycle or ATV.”


Trader Online Web Developer

Friday, August 24, 2012

CycleTrader.com Announces Request a Quote Feature for Motorcycle Shipping


Motorcycle shipping is certainly an option worth considering when a bike has to be moved long distances. Visit the resource section of CycleTrader.com to understand what you need to know about motorcycle shipping services.  Also, be sure to test drive the brand new request a quote feature, powered by UShip.com.



Request a Quote for Motorcycle Shipping

Trader Online Web Developer

Thursday, August 23, 2012

Chain and Sprocket Service


Written by: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel

Chains are simple and effective, but need regular maintenance. A neglected chain may severely damage the engine case, or wrap up in the wheel and sprocket, locking the rear wheel. The two major types of chain designs are O-ring chains and non-O-ring chains. O-ring chains employ rubber O-rings between their side plates to retain lubricants. These usually last much longer, but although internally lubricated, O-rings need to be kept clean and side plates require lubrication and rust protection.

Lube it or Lose It!
Good guidelines for O-ring chains suggest that street riders should lube about every 500 miles. If you ride in heavy dust, rain, or other extreme conditions, or have a non-O-ring chain, the interval should be even shorter. Also, be sure to lube the chain after washing the bike to prevent rust.

If the chain is dirty, avoid harsh or flammable solvents such as gasoline, which can ruin the O-rings or cause a fire. Instead, spray the chain with a cleaner like PJ1 Super Cleaner or WD-40. A Simple Solutions Grunge Brush cleans well, or an old toothbrush and rag will do.

There are many lubes available, and you may need to experiment to find a favorite. I’ve found waxes work best for me. Lube the chain while it’s still warm after riding, but never with the engine running. Engage neutral and use the centerstand (if equipped) turning the wheel by hand, or roll the bike. Apply the lube evenly. Automatic chain oilers are also available, which make it easier to keep chains lubed.

Chain Adjustment
Owner’s and shop manuals provide slack measurements and adjusting procedures. If you don’t have a manual, gauge about 1 to 1.5 inches of vertical slack, measured midway between sprockets. Too loose and the chain may grind at the swingarm and even jump the sprockets. Too tight and the chain may damage the countershaft and bearings, and even snap. Generally to adjust the chain, you remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut, then turn the adjusting bolts until the proper slack is achieved. Worn chains develop loose and tight portions, and slack varies, so it’s critical to check slack as you rotate the wheel and set it when the chain is at its tightest point. Recheck slack after tightening because it may change.

Most double-sided swingarms have alignment marks, but besides using markings, there are several ways to measure axle alignment. Motion Pro makes a chain alignment tool. Or you can also use a tape measure and measure from the centerline of the axle to the centerline of the swingarm pivot bolt on each side. Another method is to wrap a long piece of string around the front tire (set straight) and pull the string back on both sides toward the rear wheel, near and parallel to the floor. If the wheel is crooked, it will be quite obvious.

Time for Replacement?
As sprockets wear, the teeth develop sharper points and eventually become hook shaped. Pull straight back on the chain in the middle of the rear sprocket. If the chain pulls out so much that you can see the sprocket teeth, you’ll know it’s worn. If the chain resists pulling away from the sprocket, it isn’t worn out yet. Changing the rear sprocket requires rear-wheel removal, while changing a front sprocket usually involves removing the sprocket cover. Once the rear wheel is off you can change the rear sprocket. It may pull off with the damper hub, but you’ll have to unbolt the sprocket from its mounting. Install the new sprocket and tighten securely. Put the sprocket assembly back on the wheel and put the rear axle in. Follow the procedures in a shop manual if needed.

Many motorcycles come with continuous chains that are riveted together, whereas replacement chains are available with or without master links. Generally, because they’re stronger, high-horsepower bikes only come with riveted links, which may make it necessary to remove the swingarm for replacement. If you work on chains a lot, consider purchasing a chain breaking/riveting tool from a motorcycle shop or online; Emgo, Motion Pro, and RK Chain all make them. Otherwise, have a shop do the work.

To replace a master-link chain, remove the old link and connect the end of the new chain with the old one, using a new link. Loosen the rear axle to allow slack. Then pull the new chain past the countershaft sprocket. Pull and guide the new chain using the old one until both ends meet each other on the upper rear portion of the rear sprocket. Insert the master link through both new ends, and install the clip, or carefully rivet the new chain together. Follow the instructions that come with the tool. Or find a description online at www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/chain-rplc.php.

Chain Oilers
Hawke Oiler: www.hawkeoiler.com
Scottoiler & Acumen CL10 Electronic Chain Oiler: www.riderstation.com

Chains and Sprockets
Bike Bandit (888) 339-3888, www.bikebandit.com
Motorcycle Superstore (877) 668-6872, www.motorcycle-superstore.com
Trader Online Web Developer

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Digital Camera Accessories for the Digital Rider: SteadePod



Written by: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel

Here’s an old DIY trick turned into a product. In the Do-It-Yourself, version, a piece of string with a washer on the end is attached to your camera. Drop the washer to the ground, step on it, and pull the camera until the string is taught. The tension in the string helps hold the camera steady…not as good as a tripod but it may be just enough to stabilize the camera to get that low light shot. Here’s the “productized” version of the idea.


The SteadePod is for…
…people that can’t be bothered with a tripod
…ultralight travelers
…certain (but not all) low light situations

The SteadePod is not for…
…very long exposure photography

Trader Online Web Developer

Monday, August 13, 2012

Touring Tip: Exercising Good Riding Judgement


Written by: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel



Becoming a proficient, safe rider involves the accomplishment of many skills and a reservoir of experience in applying them. But even expert riders can be involved in serious accidents. In my experience, the primary preventable reason these accidents occur is because there was a lapse in the rider’s judgement. Here’s an example of one such incident with fatal consequences:

A young man on a sportbike was following a heavily laden dump truck on a four-lane city street in front of my place of employment. The rider apparently became frustrated with the truck’s slow rate of progress in the left lane and, in a split second, swerved into the right lane to pass. What the rider didn’t realize was that the truck was slowing to make a wide cross-lane turn into a construction site on the right. It took first responders quite a while to dislodge the motorcycle and its rider from beneath the truck’s rear wheels.

There are several factors, all of them mental, which can compromise a rider’s otherwise good judgement:

·         Being in A Hurry: Busy urban streets are a high-risk environment for motorcyclists, because there are so many potential risks that must be identified and mitigated. Trying to do this at warp speed is dangerous. The laws of probability suggest that sooner or later an imprudent rider will miss identifying a risk and fall victim to it. The same, also, is true on country roads.
·         Rationalizing Known Risks: Experienced motorcyclists usually are well aware of the risks posed to them in various riding situations. But how many times have you done something and later said to yourself, “I knew better than to do that!” I know I’ve done it – like the time I thought I needed to outrun an approaching thunderstorm, but didn’t. I well knew that driving rain and lightening posed a dangerous riding environment, but chanced it anyway because I didn’t want to take time out of my trip schedule to immediately find shelter. I knew better than that.
·         Over Confidence: In my estimation this is a major source of accidents for the most proficient motorcyclists. It’s a wonderful feeling when a rider gets to a point where he or she feels in complete command of their mount in virtually any situation. They often ride on the ragged edge of traction and safety. By leaving no margin of safety for a misjudged corner or an unexpected hazard suddenly appearing over the next hilltop, these riders are playing their own version of motorcycle roulette. Sooner or later they will need to rely on a margin for riding error that won’t be there when they need it.
·         Peer Pressure: How many times have you heard a highly proficient ride leader say, “Don’t try to keep up with me, ride your own ride”? The problem that often develops, though, is that less adept riders, especially if they’re on a powerful motorcycle that well exceeds their skill level (but not their ego), feel that they do have to keep up. Riding over your head is asking for trouble. And if you’re the cocky ride leader, be aware of the potential peer pressure you may be placing on the less capable riders in your jet stream.

Here are my five recommendations for exercising good riding judgement:
1. Take Your Time: If you’re late for a meeting or some other important appointment across town, it would be better to park your bike and take a cab, rather than pushing your limits through traffic. Whether you’re riding in the country or in an urban environment, motorcycling is supposed to be fun. Always ride at a safe speed.
2. Look Before You Leap: Don’t rationalize known riding risks and always be observant and thoughtful about identifying those that aren’t immediately obvious. I think there is a little voice in the back of our minds that tells us when we’re doing this—listen to it and ride accordingly!
3. Leave Your Ego in the Garage: Just like in a lot of other life situations, if you have an overly active ego, you can find yourself in a predicament. Because a motorcycle provides little, if any, crash protection, a rider has to be on top of his or her safe riding game at all times. Don’t take your ego along on a ride, it really is excess baggage that can cloud your riding judgment.
4. Stay Within Your Comfort Zone: If you’re ever feeling a little unsafe on a ride, that’s because you are unsafe. Exercise an “iron will” by always staying within your riding comfort zone. Your subconscious mind let’s you know when you’re outside your own personal safe riding envelope. Don’t ignore it! Really do “ride your own ride!”
5. Learn from Your Mistakes and those of Others: It’s important during and after a ride to reflect on any errors in judgement that you might have made and resolve not to repeat them. There is also much to be gained by learning from the mistakes of others so you can avoid those also.

Of course, not every random act of nature or acts of other humans can be anticipated and avoided, but riding with good judgment can go a long way in reducing your risk of an accident.


Trader Online Web Developer

Thursday, August 09, 2012

Getting the Most Out of Your Battery


Written by: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel


All too often, motorcycle batteries die young, murdered by neglect. Dehydration, improper charging, and a slow discharge during storage all shorten a battery’s life. But it doesn’t have to be that way; how long your battery lasts is mainly up to you.

Motorcycle radios, clocks, alarms, computers, etc., draw a small current even when the ignition switch is off, which can drain batteries within a few days. To prevent these draws from killing your battery, you could disconnect the battery, but even if there is no load on them, batteries self-discharge. When batteries are left discharged they quickly become sulfated and may permanently lose the ability to be charged, so always recharge a discharged battery as soon as possible.
Three Battery Types
There are three major types of motorcycle batteries: conventional “wet cells” with liquid electrolyte, gelled electrolyte (gel cells), and absorbed glass mat (AGM) or “dry cells.” Wet-cell batteries with removable caps contain lead-antimony and are the least expensive, but require periodic refilling. Wet batteries marked “maintenance-free” with semi-removable caps usually contain lead-calcium plates that use less water, although in some cases, they can still run dry. Gel batteries contain a jellied electrolyte that doesn’t splash easily. Gel cells are more tolerant of being left partially discharged and they don’t self-discharge fast, but they cost more than conventional batteries. The most expensive type is absorbed glass mat, which uses silica-glass matting that makes them maintenance-free. While AGM batteries typically cost more, they have higher efficiency and power than other types, are the most resistant to vibration, and usually last considerably longer.
Storage and Charging
If a motorcycle is stored for several weeks or longer, keep it on a “smart” multi-stage maintenance charger with separate bulk, absorption, and float modes. During extended storage, remove the battery and place it indoors, where it can be connected to a maintenance charger and the electrolyte level monitored. If that’s not possible, or if it’s maintenance free, the battery can be left in the bike and on a maintenance charger. (A fully charged battery will not freeze until the temperature dips to -92 degrees F, but when discharged, they can freeze at just a few degrees below the freezing point of water.) Often, we don’t expect to leave the bike as long as we do, so make it a habit to connect it when parking at home. Many chargers come with external quick-connect plugs that only take seconds to use.

Regular and trickle chargers are OK for recharging discharged batteries to put them back in service, but they don’t have the circuitry needed to maintain a battery’s charge properly during storage. When trickle chargers are left on for long periods they overcharge and damage batteries.

New batteries must be fully charged before placing them in service. Batteries should be recharged at a rate not exceeding 20% of their ampere-hour (A-H) rating, for example a 2-ampere maximum charge rate for a 10 A-H battery. Frequently discharging a battery below 50% of its capacity also shortens its life substantially. Regular charging voltages should be 14.2-14.6 for wet cell, 13.8-14.0 for gel cell, and 14.1-14.4 for AGM. Recommended float-charge voltages are 13.2-13.7 for wet cell, 13.2 for gel cell, and 13.2 -13.4 for AGM.
Maintenance and Safety
Batteries contain sulfuric acid so follow all safety warnings. Always wear eye protection, rubber gloves, and old clothing when working near them, and keep baking soda and water handy to neutralize any spilled acid.

Batteries vent hydrogen and oxygen that can explode if sparks or smoking occur nearby. Shut the ignition switch off before disconnecting battery terminals, and detach the ground side first so tools can’t spark if they touch metal. Always connect the negative jumper cable for the dead battery last, attaching it to a clean metal portion of the frame, rather than to the negative battery terminal, so no sparks occur near the battery. Only plug in a battery charger after it’s connected.

Be sure to clean and inspect terminals regularly. Electrolyte levels of non-maintenance-free batteries need to be checked monthly, especially in hot weather or when frequently used. If electrolyte levels drop below the top of the internal plates, the battery may be damaged. Use only distilled water to refill, which prevents mineral buildup.
Voltage and Specific Gravity
All batteries can be tested with a resistive load test, either electronically with a special tester that measures internal resistance, or with a digital voltmeter. Batteries with removable caps can also be tested for specific gravity (SG) with a hydrometer. A fully charged battery at rest should read about 12.66 volts, with an SG of 1.265. A 75% charge yields 12.4 volts or 1.225 SG. A 50% charge yields 12.2 volts or 1.155 SG. And 11.7 volts or 1.120 SG indicates that the battery is fully discharged. Differences in SG greater than 0.050 between cells mean that the battery is worn-out.

Trader Online Web Developer

Tuesday, July 24, 2012

CycleTrader.com Prepares for Major Product Announcement




Do you have extra motorcycle parts lying around the garage? We'll soon be announcing a solution to help turn those parts into cash. Become a Facebook fan today, and you'll be one of the first to hear the news 

Trader Online Web Developer

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Touring Tip: Traveling Light


Written by: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel


Touring motorcyclists can learn a lot from the traveling light strategies employed by backpackers. When a hiker has to carry everything he or she will need for several days, every ounce of gear and clothing carried becomes important. Because necessity is often the mother of invention, backpackers take only what they absolutely will need and each item usually has more than just one use.

For touring motorcyclists, however, traveling light is often more about bulk than weight. The goal of taking only those things you will need, however, still holds true for us two-wheeled adventurers. During a recent three-day tour on a café racer-type of bike, I was able to carry everything I needed in a small backpack and tankbag. It would have been nice to have more storage space, but I, indeed, did have everything I needed. This included a digital camera and an iPad for downloading photos.

Here’s my list of thirteen essential items for motorcycle touring, including clothing items worn on the first day of travel:
  • Protective motorcycle riding gear: full face helmet, boots, gloves, jacket, sunglasses and pants (perforated jacket and pants in summer) If room permits, I also throw in a pair of casual shoes.
  • A hydration pack (for use in both warm and cool weather) and power bars, in case food stops become scarce.
  • Rain gear, which provides additional warmth if the weather turns cold.
  • Small digital camera and batteries or charger.
  • Smart phone (and charger) for monitoring weather and calling for help, if needed.
  • Critical personal information: name, next of kin phone number(s), medications, drug allergies, blood type, etc.
  • Maps and/or GPS device (I usually take both).
  • Fresh underwear and socks for each day of the tour.
  • One pair of bicycle-type shorts for riding comfort, which are aired-out or rinsed each night, as necessary.
  • Two form-fitting synthetic shirts, which are rinsed and air-dried each night (like those sold under the UnderArmor brand, which hold perspiration close to the body and provide an evaporative cooling effect).
  •  A light weight long-sleeve turtleneck for cold mornings and whenever additional insulation is needed.
  •  A minimal toiletry kit, which includes any daily medications.
  •  A polo type shirt and a pair of jeans for casual wear after the day’s ride is complete.
OK, I’ve probably forgotten something or maybe you have a completely different list of essential items. Anyway, let us know what’s on your list of “must have” motorcycle touring items.

Trader Online Web Developer

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Partner Spotlight: EagleRider Motorcycle Rentals and Tours





EagleRider is the largest motorcycle tourism company in the world specializing in rentals of motorcycles, ATVs, dirt bikes, scooters, snowmobiles, and watercraft. Their world-class locations nationwide offer customers perfectly maintained Harley, Honda, and BMW motorcycles for rent.

EagleRider provides their customers with both guided and self-drive tours that range from 2 to 18 days. The company has over 30 guided tours to choose from as well as nearly 100 self-drive tours. One of the most famous guided tours is without a doubt the Easy Rider Movie Tour.  The tour begins in Los Angeles and follows the route taken by “Billy” and “Wyatt” to New Orleans in Easy Rider, the famous 1969 film notorious for introducing the freedom that riding a motorcycle in America can offer to the masses. The EagleRider Motorcycle Rental and Tours team worked with Sony Pictures and Easy Rider to retrace the most authentic tour route used during the production of the film. As a result, EagleRider has exclusive rights to this once in a lifetime opportunity. There are also guided tours throughout the Midwest, along the Pacific Coast, and even throughout Florida and too many self-drive tours to count.

EagleRider offers the cream of the crop customer service and has both round trip and one-way rentals without hourly fees available. Rentals include safety equipment and helmets upon request. In addition, EagleRider will even provide storage for your luggage, airline tickets, and valuables free of charge. Riders can also opt to have their bikes delivered and if they are within 5 miles of the nearest location EagleRider will even pick them up.

In addition to offering motorcycle rentals and tours, EagleRider has four retail locations that sell used motorcycles. These stores are located in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Orlando and Fort Lauderdale. 

For more information on rentals, touring and used motorcycle sales please visit http://eaglerider.com/.

Trader Online Web Developer

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Featured Destination: Stonehenge II




Stonehenge II 
120 Point Theatre Road S.
Ingram, Texas

When you are riding through Texas, stop by Ingram, Texas and take some time to appreciate Stonehenge II. Stonehenge II is a replica of the original Stonehenge monument in Salisbury, England. Quoted as the ‘Eighth Wonder of the Texas Hill Country’, Stonehenge II was originally located in Hunt, Texas but was moved by the Hill Country Arts Foundation and now resides in Ingram, Texas. Stonehenge II is about half as tall as the original, 3,500-plus-year-old Stonehenge. There are also two replica Easter Island heads at the site. There are plans to add a dance floor, benches, and side walks to the site in summer of 2012. So if you are in the area ride out to Ingram and enjoy the site. (Source: http://alfredshepperd.com/Stonehenge/main.html)

Trader Online Web Developer

Monday, June 04, 2012

Touring Tip: Packing Your Bike Properly for Touring


Written By: RoadRUNNER Motorcycle Touring & Travel















 















Before going on tour, make sure your motorcycle is loaded in a safe and secure manner. Here are our top 10 “Dos” and “Don’ts” for motorcycle packing:

Do: Pack heavier items low and as close as practical to the bike’s center of gravity.        
Don’t:
Pack a lot of weight high and behind the rear axle.

Do:
Load saddlebags and soft luggage with equal weight on each side.
Don’t: Load more weight on one side of the bike than the other. 

Do: Secure everything tightly to prevent them from becoming entangled in the chain or wheels. 
Don’t:
Have any loose items flopping around in the breeze.

Do: Pack only what you definitely will need. A lighter and less bulky load is far better!
Don’t:
Pack everything you might need on the trip.

Do: Place lighter items in a tankbag and/or in a topcase.
Don’t: Place loads on your front fender or forks, which adversely affects handling.

Do: Use nylon tie-down straps that can be locked in place and won’t stretch.
Don’t: Use bungee cords to secure exposed items.

Do: Weigh items, including the riders, riding gear and luggage to make sure that Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) isn’t exceeded.
Don’t: Exceed the GVWR found in the owner’s manual.

Do: Pack smaller items that require quick access (e.g., credit cards, drivers license, maps, etc) in easy to reach locations, like a tankbag.
Don’t: Store things you might need during the day at the bottom of saddlebags
.

Do: Pack well ahead of your departure date, and do a test ride to make sure that all items are secured and the bike handles properly.
Don’t: Leave on your trip immediately after the bike is loaded.


Do: Check you load at every stop to make sure all items are still secured.
Don’t: Pack it and forget it.

Time invested in organizing your gear and packing your motorcycle properly will pay big dividends once you’re out on the road.
Trader Online Web Developer